Guide to Japan
/How could it not be?! Bustling, dynamic cities balanced with an ancient, culture of shrines, temples, and nature.
After two weeks from Tokyo to Kyoto to Osaka, it’s easy to say that Japan is now one my favorite countries in the world. I fell in love with Japan. The people. The kindness. The cleanliness and order. Japan is in constant renewal and reinvention, but has held onto it’s ancient traditions and values making it incredibly unique. Taking the bullet train to Kyoto, walking through the geisha district and “old Japan” almost feels like you are in an entirely different country than modern Tokyo.
Did I mention the food?? Ohhh the food. A country where you can find world class sushi to late night ramen. My only regret of visiting Japan is not staying longer.
Japan Travel Tips
+Learning a little Japanese beforehand goes a long way- they take it as a sign of respect that you are at least trying. Check out Google Translate and brush up on the basics.
+To get around: cabs are very easy to find in big cities, but pricey. Most cab drivers even speak English but be prepared with a screenshot of your destination in Japanese beforehand. Uber is also a thing but they only offer taxis, and in Tokyo only black cars so they are twice as expensive! Review the subway system ahead of time and download the Hyperdia app for routes, transfer and train timetables.
+Get a JR Pass if you are leaving Tokyo. Look at the options for what’s best for your trip and bring your passport when you buy it. Trains are beyond efficient and run constantly. No need to look at the JR schedule ahead of time, just head to the station and there will usually be a train to your destination in under thirty minutes. Make way to the service counter at the station if you want to reserve seats ahead of time. They can also direct you to the correct platform.
+Download the WayGo app to translate Japanese characters and Maps Me for offline downloaded maps. Star your locations before you head out for the day.
+Pop into a 7-11 of FamilyMart for a last minute bathroom, trash can, or ATM. They also have pretty decent food and their snack game is on point for late night treats.
+Mind your manners- on trains, escalators, at stoplights, etc. People in Japan patiently wait in respective lines and in orderly fashion. Wait your turn, stay in line, and keep voices down on trains and subways.
+Hotels, restaurants, stores, cafes....the customer service is impeccable. In fact it’s considered the global standard. Tipping is a foreign concept, even considered rude. Instead, learn to say arigatou gozaimasu (thank you, politely) and sumimasen (excuse me).
+Moist toilettes/wet towels aka oshibori are considered a hospitality tradition and are offered at many restaurants & cafes once you sit down. Wipe your hands and keep it- this will usually be your napkin throughout the meal.
+Trash cans are very few and far between, so be mindful about accumulating garbage while out. Or bring a bag with you to hold trash on the go.
+Slurping is considered polite with noodles or ramen. It lets the chef know you are enjoying the meal! Speaking of ramen, if you find a place with a vending machine to place your order, put the cash in FIRST, grab the WayGo app I mentioned and start translating your options to get your ticket. Press additional buttons (meaning additional tickets) for extras such as spice, egg, or veggies. Bring ticket(s) inside- this is your order.
+I have to mention Plum Wine. It’s what Aperol Spritz in Europe is to Japan. Order it with soda. Just be careful, it goes down real easy...almost too easy…
+Americans- don’t waste your time looking for mochi ice cream. This is an entirely Japanese-American treat you can only find in gas stations or convenient stores.
+To ask for the check, make an “X” with your index fingers.
+Japan is much different than traveling in North America or Europe, so be ready for a little culture shock. Be prepared and do your research ahead of time, but RELAX! Bring your patience, a can-do attitude, and your sense of humor. Chances are, you will get on the wrong train or press the wrong button on the ramen vending machine. Just go with it.
TOKYO
Tokyo is incredibly diverse. From temples, to anime, to crazy nightlife. My advice? Experience it all.
TO DO
Meiji-jingu Temple
A shrine dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, Mejji shrine is a peaceful oasis in the middle of the bustling city. Pass under the torri gates through paths of cedar trees, and stroll the gardens and surrounding Yoyogi Park. Don’t miss the display of sake barrels, a spiritual nod as a symbolic gift for the gods.
Harajuku
From the shrine, walk 5 minutes to this nearby neighborhood full of ultra-chic shops and local boutiques. Hit up the Kawaii Monster Cafe - the famous and eccentric spot for Hello Kitty cake or rainbow spaghetti. It’s very touristy and overpriced, but this spot is the essence of “cuteness culture” and everything Tokyo.
Shibuya Crossing
Keep walking from Harajuku about 15 min, you will find the busiest pedestrian intersection in the world. Experience it on the streets, then head to Starbucks or the train station for a birds eye view of the chaos.
Shinjuku Nights
This neighborhood is home to some of the craziest nightlife in Tokyo. Make sure you check out:
Kabukicho
Tokyo’s most well known red-light district (don’t let the term scare you away, it’s very safe and female friendly) you’ll find bright lights, nightclubs, and the infamous love hotels. Find one of The Best Karaoke Bars - a tradition of Tokyo nightlife where you rent a small, private karaoke room and sing your heart out by the hour. Or do it like Anthony Bourdain and get your tickets for the Robot Restaurant. If you haven’t heard of it, check out some youtube videos - words cannot describe this show... just go. You won’t regret it. Skip the meal here and head to Omoide Yokocho before or after instead.
Omoide Yokocho
Also known as Piss Alley, here you will find a network of narrow alleys home to tiny bars and izakayas (informal Japanese pub/tavern) that serve up some of the best food around. Hop around for soba, sushi, yakitori (skewers), and the best late-night ramen of your life at Kameya.
Golden Gai
Another tiny, narrow network of alleys lined with lanterns and full of people and bars. Most places are small with a few seats, but there are over 200 bars and eateries on this stretch so walk around until you find a seat. One of our favorites was 5Gallons.
Akihabara
This is Tokyo’s district famous for it’s many electronics shops. Spend an afternoon searching for everything anime, manga, games, movies...anything. Hit up the OG Sega store for retro arcade games and purikura, Japenese photo booth. Here you can also visit a themed cafe like AKB48- a J-Pop cafe or The Gundham Cafe next door for themed lattes. Keep an eye out for the chain of all chains Don Quijote, basically a Japanese Walmart that sells almost everything, including dozens of flavors of kit-kats you have never seen. Although we just looked from the outside, one of the other popular things to do in Akihabara is to visit a maid cafe, where cute waitresses dressed up as a maids serve and mostly flatter the customers. If interested, @home cafe is mentioned to be foreigner-friendly.
TeamLab Borderless
Grab tickets ahead of time for TeamLab Borderless a 3D museum/visual art exhibit with over 10,000 square feet of visual art. Wander, explore, and gram away.
**Note- we were planning on 1-2 days in Mt Fuji - but the rainy seasons changed our plans! If you are going when the weather cooperates, I would try to make the trip! Guess we definitely have to come back to Japan now!
EAT
Kameya ($) small izakaya in omoide yokocho- cannot miss veggie tempura ramen. Head after a night of craziness in Shinjuku and the Robot Restaurant.
Afuri ($) multiple locations for fine ramen. Order the original yuzu (Japanese citrus) ramen. See tip at beginning of article about ordering from a vending machine.
Uogashi ($$) multiple locations for standing sushi
Agefuku ($$) - go early or get a reservation and order the tonkatsu, a panko breaded fried pork cutlet.
**If you are looking for a really nice meal or are in the mood to celebrate:
Matsue Roppongi ($$$) omakase (chef’s selection) sushi. Hard to find so give extra time- located behind the alley, next to Apa Hotel Roppongi.
Tacumi ($$$$) at the Intercontinental Tokyo Bay Hotel -make a reservation for extra special occasions. Teppanyaki (not Hibachi but similar concept) styled menu. You will not regret ordering the kobe beef. Enjoy dessert and a nightcap in the swanky lounge after the meal.
SUMO IN NAGOYA
We knew when traveling to Japan that a Sumo tournament would be at the top of our list of things to experience. Although there are ways to see sumo practices year round, the official sumo tournament is only held every other month for a few weeks in various locations.
*Pro tip- order your tickets online early. Reserve a four person box, even for two people. The boxes are very small and you sit the whole time, so spare your legs and just do it!
KYOTO
Walking the streets of Kyoto feels like taking a step back in time. The imperial capital of Japan for a thousand years, Kyoto is close to nature and home to more than a thousand temples, swaying bamboo forests, geisha culture, and ancient traditions. However, you can also find plenty of vegetarian and vegan options, thrift stores, and hip cafes. My advice is to take your time here- discover the mystery and magic.
TO DO
Gion District
Known as the historic Geisha district, expect exclusive tea houses, high end restaurants, and alluring wood buildings. The best way to see Gion is with an early evening stroll through the atmospheric streets lined with paper lanterns and cloth signs. Read more on how to see a real geisha.
Pontocho Alley
After your evening walk around Gion, head across the river to the atmospheric Pontocho Alley for a drink on the river, or down the stretch of Kiyamachi-dori south of Shijo-dori. Just know most bars and restaurants here don’t open until 5PM.
Rent a Bike
Unfortunately we had to cancel plans again here due to rainy season, but this would be one of the best ways to see the city. Rent a bike downtown and cycle up and down the Kamo River, or look at other popular cycling routes.
Sannezaka & Ninenzaka Districts
I would suggest going through these tiny neighborhoods in the early evening. Stroll the cobblestone streets and stop in the small vintage shops selling beautiful ceramics, incsents, and of course matcha ice cream. Keep your eyes open for the photogenic Yasaka Pagoda along the way.
Fushimi-Inari-Taisha Shrine
One of the most awe-inspiring sights in Kyoto, the Fushimi-Inari shrine cannot be missed. I would not suggest doing the whole route, but no matter what go early (before 7am) and enjoy the peace and magic of the shrine grounds.
Nishiki Market
After early morning sight-seeing, head to the Nishiki Market for a late breakfast or lunch. Look for souvenirs and all the Kyoto staples-tsukemono (Japanese pickles), kyo-yasai (Kyoto vegetables), tofu, wagashi (Japanese sweets), and fresh fish. Walk the picturesque neighborhood after and hit up Unip Clothing for vintage wears or Weekenders Coffee to recaffeinate.
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Head to tranquil Arashiyama for the famous bamboo groves. You will want to come as early as possible here to beat the crowds. Head through the beautiful path to Okochi-Sanso Villa. After, walk the quiet neighborhood and stop by Tenryu-ji Temple. To recaffeinate after an early morning here, walk ten minutes to the river to % Arabica Arashiyama.
Golden Pavilion
AKA Kinkaku-ji Temple in Northwest Kyoto- this UNESCO site cannot be missed. If you decide to take a taxi from Arashiyama to Kinkaku-ji will cost around Y2,000 ($20 USD).
Temple Hopping
There are around 1,600 temples in Kyoto, so choose wisely! Some of the most well-known are Kiyomizu-dera temple, Shoren-in Temple, or Chion-in Temple- where they used the stairs for a famous scene in The Last Samurai.
Tea Ceremony
For matcha lovers this is a must! Attend a tea ceremony where you experience (and in some cases perform) the ceremonial preparation and presentation of matcha (powdered green tea). After understanding the art, symbolism, and history behind this ceremony, you will never drink a cup of matcha the same again!
Day Trip to Nara Deer Park
Take a day trip (35 min by train) from Kyoto to Nara to see the famous deer park. This park and the surrounding temple grounds is home to over 1,200 deer who roam freely. According to ancient Shinto mythology, deer are considered very special- even thought to be messengers of the gods! The deer are very friendly and used to many visitors. Just beware if feeding them with deer crackers sold around, you may get a lot of attention!
COFFEE
% Arabica Arashiyama - there are a few locations of % Arabica throughout the city, but this location is perfect. Best to see right after the Bamboo Grove- get there around 6:30am to beat the tourists, then take your time walking over to grab your coffee when they open at 8am. Just note they have limited seating inside, so sit outside and enjoy the tranquil river views.
Weekenders Coffee - Very hip little spot tucked away behind a tiny parking lot. Best paired when seeing sites downtown like the Nishiki Market.
EAT
Stardust - this concept shop/vegan cafe is enchanting. It is a little far north but completely worth it, so stop by after seeing the Golden Pavilion or if biking up the river. They offer tea, food and dessert, just make sure to check the hours and call or e-mail for a lunch reservation a day before. If I could move into Stardust and live here forever, I would.
Ippudo Ramen - one of the best Ramen spots in Kyoto. Location is great when pairing with sites downtown like Nishiki Market- so my advice is if the fishies freak you out too much to eat there, stop into Ippudo after for a great meal. They also offer killer vegan ramen and gyoza. Not to be confused with Ippodo Tea - a great place to buy tea souvenirs to bring home.
Misoka-an Kawamichi-ya stop into this quiet downtown spot for a traditional meal. They have been preparing their own homemade soba noodles and broth for over three hundred years!
Kagizen Yoshifusa- Known as a Gion institution, head in before or after a morning of temple hopping for a variety of Japanese treats. There is a cute garden tearoom out back to sip on your morning matcha.
OSAKA
While traveling during the summer a Japanese baseball game could not be missed, and the Tigers are one of Japan’s most popular teams with the roudiess and most loyal fans. If you are traveling during baseball season, I HIGHLY recommend going- this was definitely a highlight of the trip.
In Osaka if you have limited time like we did, make sure to see Dotonbori, the heart of the city with bright lights, food, bars, shopping and entertainment. Escape the madness with a lovely stroll down the river.
On our list here was a visit to Izakaya Toyo from the Netflix series, Street Food. So cool to see him in person!
Have you been to Japan or are thinking about making the trip? I would love to hear from you! Leave a comment below or find me on social media.
XO,
Jac